Jandy Heat Pump Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting considering Jandy heat pump (as any other) is a necessary thing. In case you see the problem (it’s not working properly) and realize the repair is needed, just find the issue in the list of possible issues and take actions considering repair as it describes. In most cases it helps the customers, which proves its reliability.

Jandy AE-Ti Heat Pump Troubleshooting

SYMPTOMCORRECTIVE ACTION
Heat pump will not start, no control board display.Breaker or fuse may be tripped. Reset breaker or check fuse. If heat pump still does not run, call for service.
Heat pump will not start, control board display working.Heat pump may be in delay count down of 5 minutes Make sure control board thermostat is calling for heater to come on (check setting on thermostat and temperature reading.) Make sure heat pump is not in cooling mode.
Heat pump runs but does not heat.Verify cold air is blowing out the top of the heat pump. If the heat pump has just been installed or if the pool water has been allowed to cool significantly, it is necessary to run the heat pump continually for 24-48 hours. If the heat pump has been in operation for some time, increase the circulating pump time, or switch the control board to auto heat function. If heating a spa, verify no air intake stand pipes are open. If heat pump still does not heat call for service.
Heat pump does not run and control board displays LOW H2O FLOW.Verify circulating pump is on and all necessary valves are in the correct positions. Verify filter and skimmers are clean. Check water level in pool. Temporarily turn off all fountains and water falls that bypass the heat pump water inlet. If this does not correct the problem, call for service.
Heat pump does not run and control board display shows HIGH REFRIGERANT PRESSURE.Verify circulating pump is on and that there are no water flow restrictions to the heat pump. Make sure all necessary valves are open or in the proper positions to allow proper water flow to the heat pump. Verify filter and skimmers are clean. Check for water level in the pool. This condition may also appear if the heat pump has not been operated for an extended period. To clear the condition, cycle the heat pump, on and off, up to 3 times. If this does not correct the problem call, for service.
Heat pump does not run or short cycles and control board display shows LOW REFRIGERANT PRESSURE.Check that fan is operating and air is coming out of the top of the heat pump, while short cycling. If heat pump does not run at all, call for service.
Heat pump leaking water.Possible heat exchanger or plumbing leak. Turn the heat pump off, then turn circulating pump on for at least one hour to see if the water leak stops. If the water leak stops, normal condensation is occurring. If the water leak continues, after the heat pump is shut off for at least one hour, call for service.

Jandy Ae2000 Heat Pump Troubleshooting

Diagnostic ConditionDescription
LOW H2O FLOWLow or restricted water flow through the heat pump.
The external bypass valve is in the wrong position, or the water flow switch has malfunctioned. The water flow switch opens creating a fault and the heat pump shuts off.
The LCD screen will display LOW H2O FLOW on the top line until the switch closes. The ON LED will flash once every 2 seconds.
LOW COIL TEMPERATUREWhen the evaporator coil temperature is below 30°F, the heat pump cannot operate effectively.
The coil thermistor reads the temperature and the control goes into defrost if the defrost mode is not set to OFF in setup mode.
The LCD display will display LOW COIL TEMP on the top line for the duration of the low coil temperature condition when the defrost mode is set to OFF. When set to either Air Defrost or Reversing Valve Defrost, the LCD display will show * Defrost Mode * for the duration of the low coil temperature condition.
LOW REFRIGERANT PRESSUREWhen the ambient temperature is low, the suction pressure can drop significantly.
This fault will cause the low pressure switch to open and the control will shut off the compressor.
The LCD display will display LOW REFRIGERANT on the top line and PRESSURE on the bottom line for the duration of the fault condition. The ON LED will flash twice every 2 seconds.
HIGH REFRIGERANT PRESSUREWhen the head pressure builds too high, the high pressure switch will open causing the heat pump to shut off immediately.
The control will sense this fault condition and shut off the compressor until the switch re-closes.
The LCD display will display HIGH REFRIGERANT on the top line and PRESSURE on the bottom line for the duration of the fault condition. The ON LED will flash 3 times every 2 seconds.
HIGH WATER TEMPERATUREWhen the POOL or SPA water temperature heats to the maximum allowed temperature or above, there could be safety risks for anyone in the water.
The water thermostat will read this temperature and the control will shut off the heat pump unless it is in CHILLER mode.
The LCD display will display HIGH H2O on the top line and TEMPERATURE on the bottom line for the duration of the fault condition. This feature also remains active when the control calls for heat through a remote thermostat. This is to insure that water temperature does not go to an abnormally high level due to a possible malfunction of the remote sensor.
LOW WATER TEMPERATUREWhen the POOL or SPA temperature chills to 50°F or below there could be safety risks for anyone in the water.
The water sensor will read this temperature and the control will shut off the chiller.
The LCD display will show LOW H2O on the top line and TEMPERATURE on the bottom line for the duration of the fault condition. This feature also remains active when the control calls for chill through a remote thermostat. This is to insure that water temperature does not go to an abnormally low level due to a possible malfunction of the remote sensor.
COIL SENSOR PROBLEMIn the event that the coil temperature sensor malfunctions or is not connected the control will shut off the heat pump.
The LCD display will show COIL SENSOR on the top line and MALFUNCTION on the bottom line until the problem is resolved.
WATER SENSOR PROBLEMIn the event that the water temperature sensor malfunctions or is not connected the control will shut off the heat pump.
The LCD display will show WATER SENSOR on the top line and MALFUNCTION on the bottom line until the problem is resolved.

Jandy Pro Series Heat Pump Troubleshootin

SymptomPossible Problem/Solution
The cleaning/circulating system is not operating correctly.Verify that skimmer baskets, pump basket and other screens are clean. Clean as necessary. If a filter is installed in the system, check the filter and clean as necessary.
Check valve positions. Adjust as necessary.
NOTE Multiple pieces of equipment operating at one time (for example, waterfalls, spa jets, and surface returns) may affect the cleaning system and prevent it from working properly.
Check cleaning system manual to ensure the system is adjusted according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
Bubbles present in the pump basket.Air is in system. Check pool or spa water level to ensure it is at the proper level and air is not being drawn into suction piping. If water is at normal level, turn off pump. Turn the lid’s locking ring counter-clockwise until 'START aligns with ports. Remove lid and check for debris around lid seal seat or improper installation of lid seal, as either of these conditions will cause air leaks in the system. Clean lid seal and lid groove. Note that one (1) side of lid seal has two (2) ribs and the other has one (1). Place the side with two (2) ribs into lid groove. Replace lid on pump housing. Align ’START’ with ports and turn lid's locking ring clockwise until ’LOCKED’ aligns with ports. Hand-tighten the lid to make an air tight seal. Do not use any tools to tighten the lid. Turn the pump back on.
Air leaks are still present.Check the suction side piping union. While the pump is running, try to tighten the union. If this does not stop the air leak, turn off the pump. Loosen both unions and slide the pump out of the way. Remove, clean, and re-install both union o-rings.
Reposition the pump next to the piping and secure the union nuts to the pump. With clean union o-rings, hand-tightening of the unions should create a seal. If the unions still do not seal, gently tighten with a large pair of tongue-and-groove pliers.
Do not over-tighten.
There is no air in the system, but the pressure is still low.It is possible that debris is caught in the pump impeller. The pump impeller moves the water, and the vanes in the impeller can become blocked with debris.
1. Turn oft' the pump. Switch off the circuit breaker to the pump motor.
2. Remove the lid and basket.
3. Look inside the pump for any debris. Remove any debris found inside.
4. Replace the basket and lid.
5. Switch on the circuit breaker to the pump motor.
6. Turn on the pump, and see if the problem is solved.
7. If the impeller is still blocked with debris and it is not possible to remove the debris using Steps 2 through 4, the pump will need to be disassembled in order to access the inlet and outlet of the impeller.
There is no debris blocking the impeller and the pressure is still low.The pump impeller and diffuser are showing signs of normal wear. Have a qualified service technician check the impeller and diffuser and replace as necessary.
If the pump is part of a relatively new installation, it could be an electrical problem. Contact a qualified service technician. Have the technician check for loose electrical connections and check the voltage at the pump motor while it is in operation. The voltage must be within 10% of the motor's data plate rating. If the voltage is not within 10%, contact a qualified electrician and/or the local power service provider.
The pump is leaking water between the motor and pump body.This is caused by a damaged or failed mechanical seal. The pump seal is leaking air. Have a qualified service technician replace the seal.
The pump gets hot and shuts off periodically.Ensure that there is adequate room around the motor to circulate air and keep motor cool. Have a qualified electrician check for loose connections and check voltage at the pump motor while it is in operation. The voltage must be within 10% of the motor's data plate rating. If voltage is not within 10%, contact a qualified electrician and/or the local power service provider.

Jandy FHPM Heat Pump Troubleshooting

Fault MessagePossible CauseRemedy
NO FLOWPump is not running.Check breakers and power source, recheck wiring, set time clock and current time.
Low pump pressure.Clean filter or clear blockage, check position of valve in plumbing system.
Pressure switch fault.Make sure return eyeball fittings are installed on the wall of the pool
Variable speed pump set too low.Adjust or replace pressure switch.
Adjust variable speed pump.
FAULT- HIGH LIMITWater temperature in heater exceeds the internal limit.Inspect vent for obstructions or blockages.
Limit switch fault.Indoor installations, check vent pipe for bird, insect or rodent activity that could cause a blockage.
Replace switches.
FAULT- FUSELINK/FIELDVent temp limit fault (Ensure fusible link is rated for 240°C- and is marked with red paint)Identify and correct loose connections. Replace vent temperature limit switch.
FAULT- CHECK IGN CONTROLBroken, split, pinched or disconnected air pressure switch tubing.Check tubing and replace if necessary.
Fan not operating.Correct fault or replace fan.
Fan running slow or premature fan failure.Replace igniter.
Air flow restricted at intake or discharge. Broken igniter.Verify proper wiring for 120 VAC or 240 VAC.
Low gas supply pressure/volume.Check for proper clearances around heater and for adequate room ventilation if enclosed. Inspect for blockage or restriction at discharge of flue.
No flame at burner.Check ignition control LED codes
Verify that the size, length and number of elbows on the gas supply line meet national codes.
Identify and correct loose wiring connections, or problems with igniter, gas valve, or ignition control.
FAULT- SHORTED H20 SENSOR or FAULT- OPEN WATER SENSORFaulty wiring or connection. Failed water temperature sensor.Inspect water temperature sensor wiring.
Ensure sensor is connected correctly into the PIB PCB. Replace water temperature sensor.
FAULT- PUMPStatus message indicating the filter pump is currently turned OFF when the heater system programmed in Maintain Temp mode.• No Service Required. This is normal when the control is in a Maintain Temp mode.

Jandy 200 Heat Pump Troubleshooting

SymptomPossible CauseRemedy
Pump not operatingNo power.Check circuit breakers and power source.
Pump defective.Replace the pump.
Incorrectly wired.Recheck wiring.
Time clock settings not synchronizedCheck time clock setting.
with actual time.
Unstable combustion-Wrong gas.Make sure the gas supply matches the gas type
(1) heater turns off and onLean fuel/air mixture— low supplyindicated on the rating plate.
(2) heater ignites slowlypressure.Correct gas supply inlet pressure to:
(3) flame lifts and goes outLean fuel/air mixture— too much- (NATURAL GAS) 4.0 “ W.C. min -10.5’ W.C. max
(4) short yellow streaked flamecombustion air.- (PROPANE) 4.0 “ W.C. min -14.0" W.C. max
Rich fuel/air mixture— high manifoldUsing a digital differential manometer to check results.
pressure.Increase offset gas pressure by rotating the adjustment
Rich fuel/air mixture— too littlescrew clockwise.
combustion air.Using a digital differential manometer to check results.
Decrease offset gas pressure by rotating the adjustment
screw counter-clockwise.
Offset pressure needs to be set to —0.2" W.C.
Connect a digital differential manometer to blower throat
and gas valve port to obtain differential. Make sure the
differential value falls within the specified range for the
heater size
Gas meter too small.
Gas line from meter to heater too small.
Check blower inlet grill for obstruction.
Not enough heatHeater size inadequate.Replace with heater of higher output.
(1) heater is slow to heat upFilter pump not running long enough.
(2) heater not maintaining set
temperature
Heater pounding or knockingWater flow through heater too low.Look for obstruction or closed valve in system.
Failed Thermal Regulating Valve (TRV).Check for damaged internal bypass.
Variable speed pump set too low
Dirty filter or baskets
Low temperature riseLow water temperature.Heater is condensing. Flue product moisture will
Heater plumbed backwards.condense at the start-up until the heater water
temperature reaches the normal operating conditions.
Faulty or broken Thermal Flow Regulator (TRV).
Correct the plumbing.
Igniter lights but does not fireGas valve is not ON.Flip the switch to “on" position.
Air in gas line.Cycle ignition sequence until air is out of the gas line.
No power to gas valve.Check controls for proper operation.
Low gas pressure/volume.Check supply pressure/volume and verify proper gas

Jandy LXi Heat Pump Troubleshooting

LED CodeFault Description
The LED light is on continuously.Ignition Control Fault.
LED single flash.Air flow fault.
LED double flash.Flame exists when there is NO call for heat.
LED triple flash.Ignition lockout (heater has made three (3) unsuccessful attempts to fire and is in a soft lockout condition).

Jandy JE1500T Heat Pump Troubleshooting

DISPLAY FAULTCAUSEREMEDY
Display shows PUMP OFF1. Pump is not running.1. This is a normal display when the pump is OFF. No Service Required.
2. Low pump pressure.2. Clean filter or clear blockage, check position of valve in plumbing system.
3. Pressure switch fault.3. Adjust or replace pressure switch.
FAULT- HIGH LIMIT1. Water temperature in heater exceeds the internal limit.1. Verify function of high limit switches. Perform temperature rise test. Identify and correct cause of overheating.
2. Limit switch fault.2. Identify and correct loose connections or replace switches.
FAULT- FUSELINK/FIELD1. Fusible link fault.1. Identify and correct loose connections or replace fusable link.
FAULT- CHECK IGN CONTROL1. Broken, split, pinched or disconnected fan/switch tubing.1. Check tubing and replace if necessary.
2. Fan not operating.2. Correct fault or replace fan.
3. Fan running slow or premature fan failure.3. Verify proper wiring for 120 VAC or 240 VAC.
4. Air flow restricted at intake or discharge.4. Check for proper clearances around heater and for adequate room ventilation if enclosed. Inspect for blockage or restriction at discharge of flue.
5. Oscillating pump pressure.5. Clean filter or identify and repair cause of pump oscillation.
6. Low gas supply pressure.6. Identify and repair incorrect supply pipe size or pipe line blockage.
7. No flame at burners.7. Identify and correct loose wiring connections, or problems with igniter, flame sensor, gas valve, or ignition control.
FAULT- SHORTED H20 SENSOR Or FAULT- OPEN WATER SENSOR1. Faulty wiring or connection.1. Inspect sensor wiring. Ensure sensor is connected into Power Interface Board.
2. Failed sensor.2. Replace temperature sensor.

Jandy EE-Ti Series Heat Pump Troubleshooting

SymptomCauseRemedy
Pump not operatingA. No powerA. Check circuit breakers and power source.
B. Pump defectiveB. Replace.
C. Incorrectly wiredC. Recheck wiring.
D. Time clock settings not synchronized with actual timeD. Check time clock setting.
Flashback on start-upA. Wrong gasA. Make sure gas supply matches gas indicated on rating plate.
B. Burner damageB. Replace burner.
Lazy flame with yellow tipA. Wrong gasA. Make sure gas supply matches gas indicated on rating plate.
Flame lifts and goes outA. Lean fuel/air mixture—Low supply pressureA. Correct supply pressure to assure 2.5" W.C. (Natural) or 9.0" W.C. (Propane) manifold pressure when firing.
B. Lean fuel/air mixture—Too much combustion airB. Check burner throat pressure, adjust to 1.0" W.C.
Short yellow streaked flameA. Rich fuel/air mixture— Hi manifold pressureA. Correct manifold pressure to 2.5" W.C. (Natural) or 9.0" W.C. (Propane).
B. Rich fuel/air mixture—Too little combustion airB. Locate and correct combustion system sealing beneath burners (see Section 10.3). Check burner throat pressure, adjust to 1.0" W.C.
Not enough heatA. Inadequate gas supplyA. Gas meter too small. Gas line from meter to heater too small.
B. Low manifold gas pressureB. Gas pressure on heater manifold, should be adjusted to 2.5" W.C. (Natural), 9.0" W.C. (Propane).
C. Heater size inadequateC. Replace with heater of higher input.
D. Temperature rise set incorrectlyD. Adjust temperature rise according to Section 7.8 of this manual.
Heater pounding or knockingA. Water flow through heater or knockingA. Check temperature rise according to Section 7.8 of this manual. If temperature rise is too high, check pipe size, pump capacity. Look for obstruction or closed valve in system. Check for damaged internal bypass or external bypass set wrong.
Heater condensingA. Low water temperatureA. Flue product moisture will condense at the start-up until the heater water temperature reaches the normal operating conditions.
B. Heater plumbed backwardsB. Correct Plumbing.
Igniter lights but main burners will not come onA. Gas valve not at “on" positionA. Turn knob to “on" position.
B. Air in gas lineB. Cycle ignition sequence until air is out of the gas line.
C. Gas valve failedC. Replace gas valve.
D. No power to gas valveD. Check controls for proper operation.
E. Low gas pressureE. Check supply pressure and manifold.
F. High burner throat pressureF. Check burner throat pressure.