Ge heat pumps can malfunction occasionally. If such situation became real for you, don’t worry and and start reading the instructions given here. They clearly describe the most common problem which means only one thing: it’s definitely going to help. Once you found the problems, start repair as it is described. The results are usually more than satisfactory.
Ge Geo Heat Pump Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible Causes | What To Do |
|---|---|---|
| Water heater is noisy | Fans are used to move air through the system. The fan noise volume will vary as the water is heated. | • Some amount of fan noise is normal (similar to the blower on a central heating and cooling system. If you hear an abnormal noise like a knocking or the noise level seems unusually loud, then contact service. |
| • If noise level has been increasing over the last weeks or months, the filter may be getting dirty, thus making the fans work harder. Check to see if filter needs to be cleaned. | ||
| Water heater is making the room too cold | Room is not vented properly or is too small. | • If the room is smaller than 10' x 10' x 7'. then it must have a louvered door or other means to allow air exchange with surrounding rooms. |
| Water dripping down the outside of the heater | Condensate drain hoses are not connected. | • Two drain hoses are included with your water heater. Connect the longer 6' hose to the lower condensate drain port. Connect the short 3’ hose to the upper condensate drain port. |
| Condensate drain hoses are kinked or clogged. | • Remove each drain hose and clear any debris from the line. You can use a small wire like a hanger or a small screwdriver to clear out any debris in the drain port on the unit. | |
| Hot/Cold water connections are not tightened. | • Tighten the inlet and outlet pipe connections. | |
| Not enough or no hot water | Water usage may have exceeded the capacity of the water heater. | • Wait for the water heater to recover after an abnormal demand. |
| A fuse is blown or a circuit breaker tripped. | • Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. | |
| Electric supply may be off. | • Make sure electric supply to water heater and disconnect switch, if used, are in the ON position. | |
| Water temperature may be set too low. | ||
| Leaking or open hot water faucets. | • Make sure all faucets are closed. | |
| Electric service to your home may be interrupted. | • Contact the local electric utility. | |
| Improper wiring. | ||
| Manual reset limit (TCO). | ||
| Cold water inlet temperature may be colder during the winter months. | • This is normal. The colder inlet water takes longer to heat. | |
| Water is too hot | Water temperature is set too high. | |
| Electronic control has failed. | • Call for service. | |
| Rumbling noise | Water conditions in your home caused a buildup of scale or mineral deposits on the heating elements. | • Remove and clean the heating elements. |
Ge SS1000 Heat Pump Troubleshooting
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| LOW FLOW | 1. Restrictions in inlet or discharge |
| 2. Foot valve operating improperly | |
| 3. Air leak in inlet piping | |
| 4. Air leak in mechanical seal | |
| 5. Wrong installation of belt drive | |
| 6. Suction lift too high | |
| 7. Reverse rotation of pump shaft | |
| 8. Pump not primed adequately | |
| 9. Inlet strainer, filter plugged. | |
| 10. Pump throttling valve on discharge closed (pump deadheaded) | |
| MOTOR RUNS HOT OR STOPS | 1. Motor surface temperature up to 104°F (40°C) over ambient can occur. The motor will feel hot to the touch. |
| 2. Bad connection | |
| 3. Motor exceeded rated amp draw | |
| 4. Excessive ambient temperature | |
| 5. Heater size to small in motor heater | |
| 6. Binding rotation in the pump shaft | |
| 7. Bearings not adequately lubricated | |
| 8. Specific gravity or viscosity of liquid higher than design conditions | |
| 9. Motor wired improperly | |
| MOTOR DOES NOT RUN | 1. Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker or overload heater |
| 2. Motor to hot - allow to cool | |
| 3. Motor voltage connection and line voltage different | |
| 4. Bad connection | |
| 5. Motor wired improperly | |
| 6. Wrong ratio for belt drive | |
| PUMP VIBRATION | 1. Misalignment of flexible coupling |
| 2. Bent pump shaft | |
| 3. Improper mounting | |
| 4. Starved suction | |
| 5. Worn bearings | |
| 6. Motor out of balance | |
| 7. Operating beyond specified capacity range of the pump | |
| LOW PRESSURE | 1. Pump not adequately primed |
| 2. Air leak in inlet piping | |
| 3. Excessive flow | |
| 4. Clogged suction line filter or screen | |
| 5. Reverse rotation of pump shaft | |
| 6. Foot valve operating improperly | |
| 7. Wrong ratio for belt drive | |
| PUMP LEAKING | 1. Mechanical seal needs replacing |
| 2. O-rings in pump casing damaged | |
| 3. Oil seals need replacing | |
| 4. Piping not sealed properly |
Ge Zoneline 5800 Heat Pump Troubleshooting
| Fault Code Displayed | Condition | Action |
|---|---|---|
| F-A | T4 Not Rising | Call service |
| F-B | Discharge Temp Not Stable | |
| F-C | Evaporator Not Frost Free | |
| F-D | Superheat Too Low | |
| F-E | Discharge Temperature Above Limit | |
| F-F | Electronic Expansion Valve Out of Range | |
| F2 | 12 Tank Temperature Sensor Failure | |
| F-3 | Compressor Failure | |
| F-4 | Fan Failure | |
| F-5 | T3a Sensor (Evap inlet temperature) Failure | |
| F-6 | T3b Sensor (Evap outlet temperature) Failure | |
| F-7 | T4 Sensor (Compressor outlet) Failure | |
| F-8 | T5 Sensor (ambient temperature) Failure | |
| F-9 | Lower Heating Element Failure | |
| F-10 | Upper Heating Element Failure | |
| F-ll | Dry Tank Fault | |
| F13 | Stuck Key Fault | |
| F15 | DataFlash Fault |
Ge Zoneline AZ38H09EAD Heat Pump Troubleshooting
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) | CORRECTIVE ACTION |
|---|---|---|
| NO HOT WATER | 1. No power to the water heater (power button not lit) | 1. Check for blown fuse or tripped breaker. Restore power to unit then press power button. |
| 2. Unit in standby (power button RED) | 2. Press the power button to turn the unit on (power button GREEN) | |
| 3. Unit in Vacation mode | 3. Press Vacation Mode Button to exit Vacation mode and return to desired operating mode. | |
| 4. High temperature limit switch open | 4. Reset the high temperature limit switch; | |
| 5. Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in current mode | 5. Change to different mode or modify usage patterns | |
| 6. Non-functioning upper temperature sensor | 6. Contact a qualified person for service | |
| INSUFFICIENT HOT WATERV SLOW HOT WATER RECOVERY | 1. Temperature set-point too low | 1. Increase set point temperature; |
| 2. Air filter dirty | 2. Clean air filter | |
| 3. Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in current mode | 3. Change to different mode or modify usage patterns (For example if in Efficiency Mode switch to Hybrid Mode) | |
| 4. Water connections to unit reversed | 4. Ensure the cold connection is at the bottom and that the hot connection is at the top | |
| 5. Heat lost through long run of exposed pipe | 5. Insulate exposed piping | |
| 6. Hot water leak at faucet or piping | 6. Repair hot water leaks | |
| 7. Non-functioning heating element | 7. Call qualified person for service | |
| 8. Sediment or scale build up in tank | 8. Drain and flush tank. Water conditioning may be necessary to minimize build up | |
| HIGH OPERATION COSTS | 1. Temperature set-point too high | 1. Decrease set point temperature |
| 2. Air filter dirty | 2. Clean air filter | |
| 3. Electric mode selected | 3. Change to Efficiency or Hybnd mode for reduced energy costs | |
| 4. Water connections to unit reversed | 4. Ensure the cold connection is at the bottom and that the hot connection is at the top | |
| 5. Heat lost thru long run of exposed pipe | 5. Insulate exposed piping | |
| 6. Hot water leak at faucet or piping | 6. Repair hot water leaks | |
| 7. Sediment or scale build up in tank | 7. Drain and flush tank. Water conditioning may be required to minimize build up | |
| DRIP FROM TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (Warning: Do not plug or cap T&P discharge pipe.) | 1. Excessive water pressure | 1. Check water supply inlet pressure. If higher than 80 PSIG, install a pressure reducing valve (50- 60 PSIG is the recommended pressure.) |
| 2. Add or service a thermal expansion tank. | ||
| 3. Non-functioning Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve | 3. Replace the Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve | |
| OTHER | 1. The water heater does not immediately start | 1. When first started the water heater takes about 8 minutes to complete a diagnostic routine |
| 2. The heat pump does not run in Efficiency mode. | 2. Contact a qualified person for service |
Ge 5800 Heat Pump Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible Causes | What To Do |
|---|---|---|
| Zoneline does not start | The unit is unplugged. | • Make sure the Zoneline plug is pushed completely into tile outlet. |
| The fuse is blown/circuit breaker is tripped. | • Check the house fuse/circuit breaker box and replace the fire or reset the breaker. | |
| The unit is waiting for the compressor overload protector to reset. | • Tills is normal. The Zoneline will start again after it resets. | |
| Power failure. | • There is an automatic delay start feature that may not allow the unit to start, after power is restored and the unit is turned back on, for approximately 30 seconds. | |
| • There is a protective time delay (up to 3 minutes) to prevent tripping of the compressor overload. For this reason, the unit may not start normal heating or cooling for 3 minutes after it is turned hack. on. | ||
| The current interrupter device is tripped. | • Press the RESET button located on the power cord plug or the box near the plug. | |
| Zoneline does not cool or heat as it should | Indoor airflow is restricted. | • Make sure there are no curtains, blinds or furniture blocking the front of the Zoneline. |
| Outdoor airflow is restricted or recirculated. | • Make sure the rear grille is not restricted. This can cause the unit to cycle off due to the compressor overload. | |
| • Outdoor grille must have a minimum of 65% free area. Non-GE grilles may be too restrictive for proper performance. Consult your salesperson for assistance. | ||
| The temp control may not be set high enough. | • Turn the control to a lower or higher setting. | |
| NOTE: The temperature limiter may be limiting the temperature range. | ||
| The air filter is dirt. | • Clean the filter at least every 30 day’s. | |
| The room may have been hot or cold. | • When the Zoneline Ls first turned on you need to allow time for the room to cool down or warm up. | |
| Outdoor air is entering the room. | • Set the vent control to the CLOSE position. | |
| Burning odor at the start of heating operation | Dust is on the surface of the heating element. | • This can cause a “burning” odor at the beginning of the heating operation. This odor should quickly fade. |
| The air is not always cool or hot during operation | The heat pump is not producing hot air. | • This is normal. The heat pump will produce warm air but not as hot as air produced when the higher-cost electric heat is used. |
| The fan switch may be set at continuous fan | • This causes the fan to blow room temperature air even when the compressor or heater cycles off. The continuous air movement provides better overall temperature control. |
Ge Zoneline AZ61H12EAC Heat Pump Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible Causes | What To Do |
|---|---|---|
| Water is too hot | Electronic control has failed. | • Call for service. |
| Rumbling noise | Water conditions in your home caused a buildup of scale or mineral deposits on the heating elements. | • Remove and clean the heating elements. This should only be done by a qualified service personnel. |
| Relief valve producing popping sound or draining | Pressure buildup caused by thermal expansion to a closed system. | • This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected. Contact the water supplier or plumbing contractor on how to correct this. Do not plug the relief valve outlet |
| The filter light is on. | The filter requires cleaning. A clean filter is necessary for effective operation. | |
| The heater is beeping and the screen says "FA-F8" | There is an issue with the heat pump system. | • The unit will automatically switch to another available mode to ensure you continue to have hot water. Contoct service immediately and give them the codes listed on the display screen. |
| The heater is beeping and the screen flashes an error code | There is an issue with the water heater that requires immediate attention. | • The heater may switch to another available heating mode. Contact service immediately. To stop the beeping noise (unless error code F2, Fll or bAd linE) press either the UP or down arrow button and the alarm will stop and the display will go back to normal (set temperature). |
| The water heater is beeping and the screen flashes, "bAd linE" | Unit is not receiving 240VAC as intend. | • Turn off power to water heater (generally at the breaker panel). Then read “Electrical Connections“ section of Installation Instructions, see page 16. Then, contact the installer to verify electrical input to the water heater. |
| Hot Water has a rotten egg or sulfur smell | Certain water supplies with high sulfate content will react with the anode rod that is present in all water heaters for corrosion protection of the tank. | • The odor can be reduced or eliminated in most water heaters by replacing the anode rod with less-active material rod. In some cases, an added step of chlorinating the water heater and all hot water lines may be necessary, contact your local water professional or plumber for options and instructions A qualified servicer or plumber should do this replacement Use of a non-GE approved anode rod, or operating the water heater without a GE approved anode rod will VOID the warranty. |
| Unit is not making normal sounds | If unit is using electric resistance elements, it will not make fan or compressor sounds. | • Check mode of unit |